A major step in the restoration. Placing the body back on the chassis. The final work on the clutch and completing the drive line is also depicted in this series. The body had originally been remove from the chassis in the same fashion.

This is a must share with all you out there in 1933 Chevrolet land. The "Chevrolet 1933 Passenger Car Engineering Features" book. This is filled with nearly 100 pages of details and specs.
http://www.gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/docs/Chevrolet/1933-Chevrolet.pdf
It downloadable and usable.

This find made my day.

This is the clutch fork. There is a wear of .88 with the new bearing at .9. I'll fill this area in the fork with weld. And grind it down to the original diameter. It will interesting to see how much travel will return. The two hole that are in the fork next to the wear area must be for a spring holder or something. I'd like to know if there is a part I need to find.

Here is the engine in the chassis. The front motor mount is now on the underside of the frame cross member. This allowed the side and transmission mounts to fit into place. There is still a problem with the front motor mount. The bracket on the front of the engine for mounting with the motor mount rests on the frame. The inner cast parts of the front motor mount do not reaching up far enough to cause a clearance between the frame and the bracket mount on the engine. I have inserted a strong piece of machine shop belting between the frame and motor mount to cause some separation. This can't be the right way to solve this problem. Open for all suggestions.
Don

The left motor mount now in place. This mount received the same treatment as the right mount.

Right motor mount fits after being flipped for top to bottom. It was also required to move the front motor mount to the under side of the frame.

This shows the travel in the clutch pedal. This is much better that it was, but there is still too much play. And the adjustment is still at the maximum adjustment. I'm open for comments and suggestions for all the clutch experts out in Chevy Land.

This is the part of the clutch pedal that is used to adjust the travel of the clutch. This picture shows the amount of wear in the hole. This area was filled with weld and reground down to a tighter fit on the clutch fork. I forgot to take a picture of the filled and reground hole size. Maybe I can include that picture the next time I take everything apart again.

This picture shows the bushing being driven by hammer into the brake bushing hole. The bushing is about 2/3 of the way inserted. Above the tool I made is another rod that was made to fit inside the "bushing removal tool". This second tool was the one hammered on. The old bushing came right out, and new bushings were hammered in place with no damage. I used this method because I don't own a press.

This is the tool I made on the lathe to remove the bushings on the brake and clutch pedals. The smaller dia. is a snug fit to the inside of the new bushings. The larger dia. is a snug fit to the inside diameter of the pedal bushing holes.

The clutch was adjusted to the maximum position and the clutch would still not disengage. After looking at all the parts it was apparent that there was an accumulation of wear in all the parts causing this problem. So everything with the clutch pedal and adjusting parts were disassembled.

This shots shows the engine back in the car. I had to flip the motor mounts to make the side mounts line up. The front mount had to be moved to the under side of the frame.

I finally got the engine to fit pretty well. There is still some tweaking that needs to be completed. As all of you know other duties have taken me away for the project for the moment. Has anyone else ever felt that restoring a car is like the dime movies we use to go to on Saturday morning. The movies would go to some exciting point and stop. You had to spend the whole week waiting to get back to the movies to see what happened. Then it would start all over again. To be continued.